Berry Rush

Sumatra usually means one thing: wet-hulled, earthy, heavy. This is something else. Asman Arianto processes naturally at his mill in Gayo — rare here — and the cup shows it. Cacao, dried plum, boozy cranberry with a sweetness that holds. I've cupped a lot of Sumatran coffee. This is the one that made me stop and go back for another sip. That's why it's here.